The neighbourhoods of Alfama and Mouraria extend down from the São Jorge castle to the lowest part of old Lisbon. Alfama and Mouraria are neighbours. But they are also rivals.
In front of Alfama is the Tagus River, where boats moored at the docks await its inhabitants. Alfama is a true medieval treasure. There is no need to rush in Alfama since all the roads lead to the river.
Mouraria is different. Facing the central valley of Lisboa, it has always been more commercially minded. Mouraria extends from the São Jorge castle to the São Lourenço Tower. Its complicated network of streets hold the memories of the conquest of Lisbon in 1143, since it was here that the conquered North Africans were sent to live.
Despite different vocations, Alfama and Mouraria have always complemented each other. Old historic roots have led to the development of their own identities. These identities have almost become petit nationalisms which the inhabitants of Lisbon call bairrismo, loyalty to one?s neighbourhood.
This spirit of competition can be heard in the words of fado music and in one such song the neighbourhoods compete on the morning sun. Alfama inhabitants claim their morning starts earlier. For them the sunrise belongs, "in an attic/the highest in Alfama/when the sun first shines on." And to prove that Lisbon?s day starts there, "not even Madragoa/no one can compete/that high window/so early kissing Lisbon." But "Madragoa will not forgive/if one stays up later than she".
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