Clay Turtle
(K=-42) - Comment Date 6/28/2006
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I had considered submitting an article on film latitude & selection. Your question reinforces the preception that other could find it useful.
I'ave used 50 ASA 4x5 & found it preferrable to the same emullusion in the 100 ASA but for 35 mm I find the 100 ASA works just as well if not better. The rub [attribute] of slide film is the 1 stop of light latitude so I would suggest using spot metering & taking hi & low grey card readings to check the range of light values you intend to shoot.
If it was me, I would carry a couple of rolls of pro negative film. Professional film were designed to give true colour values & have a 4 stop light value range so they are less limiting as chrome when facing higher contrast in light values. The rub with colour negatives is getting them printed correctly. . . pro & mini lab used to run test stips each morning, these strips provided information on the film processing AND the printing. the processed strip was printed nad then metered & these values entered into the mini processor (computer). These values correlated over & under exposure to colour output producing good colour (values) for minor variations of exposure.
I don't think digital print use such strips nor null values for emulsion base so they tend not to do negatives as well as slide (positives). Hope this is helpful & have fun and good shooting.
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Laurie J. Herndon
(K=5338) - Comment Date 12/7/2006
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aaaaaaaaaaaaah. Antelope canyon! I know it well. SHOOT TRANS!!!!! NO doubt about it. Ektachrome 64 or 100 will do nicely. Why chrome you ask???... Because unless you are printing all images yourself or shooting digital(which I'm asuming you're not...and I wouldn't without a very high end camera...) using chrome over negs with a higher asa allows for lots of bracketing and in there the light changes every second. Suggest if you find a shot you like, get ready for multiples bracketed from around 1/2 sec to 2 sec depending on your f stop. When I've shot it in the past I've mostly shot at f 16 or f22 (for maximum depth of field. Start at around 1/8 sec and bracket same shot to 1 second. Never hurts to take a hand held light meter and grey cards to meter your shadow areas first. Chrome is good in this situation because: 1 you can do a snip test at normal develop and see what kind of tonality your shadows held at the lower shutter speeds. On each roll make each FIRST 4 exposures bracketed at 1/8, 1/2, 1 sec & 2 sec for really dark areas. And: 2 Having someone try to do a machine print for you will only waste your money as the machines try to adjust everything for an overall exposure which will blow out all your light areas trying to hold the detail in the dark areas. Have your lab do a "snip test" on your chromes and judge from there. As for print film, I agree with the guy above me here. The Pro "negative" film will render truer colors and 100 asa will work well, but again it all depends if you are going to then print from your film or scan it and print digital. They can snip the neg film also and contact it for you, but again you are up against paying for a custom print from each neg if you want a decent print. Good Luck.. and if possible, take a standard size as well as a table top tripod for those shots where you want to lay down and shoot up into the cracks. Also, don't bother shooting any of those shots where the guide throws a little sand up into the light (just gets really blown out in the rays streaming through) HAVE FUN
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Ranjay Mitra
(K=733) - Comment Date 1/17/2007
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Hi Aurobindo, By this time, I see that you already have posted images of the A/Canyons. So how was the trip?
Cheers!
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Aurobindo Saha
(K=2396) - Comment Date 1/18/2007
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Hi Ranjay,
Thanks for your interest. Yes we went to many places in South West last September. Zion-Bryce-Page-Grand Canyon - mostly in the faboulous terrain of four squares - AZ, UT, CO, NM. These are magnificient places and experience of life time.
I ultimately settled for Fuji Velvia 100 for Page Antelope Canyons. Pictures turned awesome. Wish I can show you the slides now. But most important thing for a serious photographer - you need to have a very very stable tripod. Needs around 20 to 30 sec exposure at decent apperture. Digital is good choice, but personally I feel felvia is better. In fact Kodak selected one of my anetelope canyon photograph for their home page in November 06. But that was captured in 5 MP Sony V1 ;)
Thanks
Aurobindo
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Chris Mathers
(K=197) - Comment Date 4/11/2007
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I loved Zion NP but was unimpressed by the Grand Canyon the last time I was out west. Did you go to Canyon Lands NP by chance? Its much better. Arches NP was pretty sweet too.
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Aurobindo Saha
(K=2396) - Comment Date 4/12/2007
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Hi Chris,
I have heard that Canyonlands NP is beautiful. But I didnot have chance to go there. I have been to Arches. That is a mervellous place. Thank you so much for your comments.
In fact I too felt the same. Zion, Brye has distinct characters of their own that amazed me. Grand Canyon didnot have much charater that can make that distinct, but the granduer of the place left me speechless.
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