Adam E. J. Squier
(K=9803) - Comment Date 3/24/2005
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I think Leica came up with a polarizer that flipped over -- you mounted it to the lens, then flipped it over the viewfinder, adjusted it to how you like, then flipped it over the lens again. I doubt you'll find one that'll fit your camera.
I'd just hold the polarizer over the viewfinder, then hold it over the lens. Not convenient at all.
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Eric Peterson
(K=4419) - Comment Date 3/24/2005
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Unfortunately there's no really convenient way to do this. The best I've come up with for my old Rapid Omega is to make a few different colored marks on the outer filter rim with some model paint. Hold the polarizer to your eye and rotate until you see the effect you want. Note the location of the different colored dots and then place the polarizer on the lens and turn it to the same position. A bit of a pain, but it does work.
Eric
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David Henderson
(K=30) - Comment Date 3/30/2005
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Its one of those things that's a bit easier than it looks and gets easier still with practise. You need a series of reference marks on the rim of the filter. The reference marks can be marks put on by the manufacturer or marks you paint on yourself. Twiddle to adjust the degree of polarisation before you put it on the lens not after, and note which of your marks is at the 12 o'clock position or nearly so when you have the effect you want. Screw the filter onto the lens and re-establish the right mark at 12 o'clock.
It takes longer to describe than it does to do. If you want a real challenge try setting ND grads correctly- now that's difficult.
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A. Y. Brown
(K=0) - Comment Date 3/31/2005
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Hi,
Thanks for your tip. Will give it a try.
I agree that the graduated ND filter is most difficult. These challanges are not such a problem in the digital world as so many adjustments can be made after importing the image into the computer.
All the Best,
A Y Brown (Albert)
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tony chiu
(K=33) - Comment Date 6/18/2005
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While i do agree with the suggested solutions posted above , however you will still encounter the problem with the correct exposure reading ( presumably you have a buit-in light meter in your rangefinder camera. The reason for that is that you have the filter factor to take into consideration. The Rangefinder not being one that read the light through the lens (TTL) will not be able to take into account the filter factor automatically becuase it doesn't detact the use or the presence of a filter there. My experience with my Fujifilm GA645Zi tells me that after taking the reading from the camera built in meter i still have to make adjustment to my shutter speed or my aparture by either increase one stop or two stop or decrease by one stop or two stop, depending on the filter I am using.Otherwise my photo will turn out to be either overexposed or underexposed.In short in the case of the circular polarising filter, after you have rotate the position of the filter you need to increase your exposure reading by two stops in order to get the correct exposure. Another way to ensure that you capture a pivture correctly would be by using a external hand held spot meter and place the filter over the spot meter and take a reading of light from there and therafter place the filter to your rangefinder camera and shoot with the apurture / shutter reading taken from the spot meter. You will find that this is most accurate.
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